Basic Surfboard Repairs
A Beginner’s Guide from Solarez to Fibreglass
Repairing your own surfboard is a useful skill. Small dings are often straightforward to fix yourself, and learning the basics can save money and prevent a small crack from turning into serious water damage.
This guide covers repairs from quick Solarez-style ding repairs through to fibreglass repairs for larger damage.
Important: The correct repair method depends on what your board is made from. Epoxy and polyester surfboard systems are not interchangeable. Always check the board and resin manufacturer’s instructions before starting.
1. Before You Start
The most important rule of surfboard repair is:
Keep water out of the board.
A small ding that allows water into the foam can eventually cause much more serious damage.
If you’ve hit a rock, reef, another board or the beach, inspect the damage before putting the board back in the water.
Look for:
- Cracks
- Holes
- Soft spots
- Crushed foam
- Missing fibreglass
- Delamination
- Water coming from the board
- Damage around the fin boxes
- Damage around the leash plug
- Exposed foam
If you can see white or yellow foam through a crack or hole, don’t simply cover it with tape and continue surfing.
2. Identify Your Surfboard Construction
Before choosing resin, determine what your board is made from.
Traditional PU / Polyester Board
Typically consists of:
Polyurethane foam + fibreglass + polyester resin
These boards are commonly associated with traditional shortboards and longboards.
EPS / Epoxy Board
Typically consists of:
EPS foam + fibreglass + epoxy resin
Many modern boards use EPS foam and epoxy resin.
Why this matters
Do not assume one resin works with every board.
In particular:
- Polyester resin can damage EPS foam.
- Epoxy resin is generally compatible with EPS.
- Epoxy can be used on many PU boards, but the finished repair may look or behave differently from the original construction.
- Solarez products come in different formulations, so check the label carefully.
If you’re unsure, check the board manufacturer’s specifications or use an epoxy repair system suitable for the board.
3. Basic Repair Equipment
You don’t need a huge workshop for small repairs.
Basic tools
- Sandpaper
- Sanding block
- Razor blade or craft knife
- Small mixing cups
- Mixing sticks
- Disposable gloves
- Masking tape
- Paper towels
- Clean cloths
- Small brush
- Plastic spreader
- Small scissors
- Safety glasses
Sandpaper
A useful selection is:
- 80 grit — shaping/removing damaged material
- 120 grit — general preparation
- 180 grit — smoothing
- 240 grit — finishing
- 400 grit — final wet/dry finish
You won’t necessarily need all of these for every repair.
4. Safety First
Surfboard repair involves resins, solvents and dust.
Work in a well-ventilated area, preferably a garage or workshop rather than an enclosed room.
Wear:
- Nitrile gloves
- Eye protection
- Appropriate respiratory protection when sanding
- Suitable clothing
Avoid breathing sanding dust.
Resin and solvent fumes can also be hazardous, so follow the manufacturer’s safety instructions and keep sources of ignition away from flammable products.
5. Repair No. 1 — Tiny Surface Ding
This is the easiest repair.
A small crack or shallow ding where the foam hasn’t been badly damaged can often be repaired using a UV-curing ding repair product such as Solarez, provided you use the formulation appropriate for your board.
Step 1 — Dry the Board
Make absolutely sure the damaged area is dry.
If water has entered the foam, allow the board to dry thoroughly before sealing the damage.
Don’t rush this stage.
Step 2 — Clean the Ding
Remove:
- Sand
- Wax
- Dirt
- Loose fibreglass
- Loose resin
Use a clean cloth and an appropriate cleaner compatible with the board and repair system.
Step 3 — Roughen the Area
Lightly sand around the damaged area.
You want to create a surface that the repair resin can bond to.
Don’t aggressively remove good material.
Step 4 — Apply Solarez
Apply enough repair resin to completely fill the ding.
Try not to create a huge blob.
Use a small spreader or similar tool to level it.
Step 5 — UV Cure
Most UV-curing ding repair products require exposure to sunlight or an appropriate UV light source.
Keep the repair in the shade while positioning it.
Once you’re happy with the application, expose it to UV according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
The resin should harden relatively quickly.
Step 6 — Sand
Once cured:
- Start with coarse sandpaper if necessary.
- Shape the repair.
- Move to finer sandpaper.
- Smooth the edges into the surrounding board.
You should end up with a smooth transition rather than a noticeable lump.
6. Repair No. 2 — Crack Through the Fibreglass
A longer crack requires more preparation.
First inspect the damage.
If the fibreglass has cracked but the underlying foam is intact and dry, the repair may be relatively simple.
If the foam is crushed or missing, you will need a more substantial repair.
7. Prepare the Damage
Use sandpaper to remove the damaged surface around the crack.
The objective is to create a clean bonding area.
You may need to sand away:
- Loose fibreglass
- Cracked resin
- Sharp edges
- Contaminated material
Create a shallow feathered area around the repair.
Don’t dig unnecessarily deep into the foam.
8. Fibreglass Cloth
For a stronger repair, use fibreglass cloth rather than simply filling the hole with resin.
Cut a piece of cloth slightly larger than the damaged area.
For a small repair, one layer may be sufficient.
For more significant structural damage, additional layers may be required.
Important
Don’t cut one enormous piece of cloth for a small ding.
The cloth should cover the damaged area with a reasonable overlap onto sound existing laminate.
9. Mixing Resin
This is where many first-time repairs go wrong.
Use the resin and hardener exactly according to the manufacturer’s mixing ratio.
Do not guess.
Do not add extra hardener because you want the resin to cure faster.
Mix slowly and thoroughly.
Scrape the sides and bottom of the container while mixing.
10. Applying Fibreglass
Place the fibreglass cloth over the prepared repair.
Wet the cloth with resin.
You want the cloth to become completely saturated.
However, avoid flooding the repair with unnecessary resin.
The fibreglass provides the reinforcement.
The resin holds everything together.
11. Remove Excess Resin
Use a plastic spreader or similar tool to gently work the resin through the cloth.
Work from the centre towards the edges.
Try to remove:
- Air bubbles
- Dry patches
- Excess resin
The finished laminate should contain the cloth rather than looking like a thick blob of resin.
12. Allow It to Cure
Leave the repair undisturbed until the resin has completely cured.
Curing time depends on:
- Resin type
- Temperature
- Hardener
- Mix ratio
- Repair thickness
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions rather than relying on a fixed number of hours.
13. Sanding the Repair
Once cured, the repair will probably look rough.
That’s normal.
Start with a suitable coarse grit and carefully level the repair.
Work progressively through finer grades.
Be careful.
The aim is to sand the repair, not through the surrounding original fibreglass.
Stop regularly and inspect the surface.
14. Finishing Coat
Depending on the repair system, you may apply a final resin coat to fill the weave of the fibreglass.
Allow it to cure and then sand it smooth.
For a cosmetic repair, you can progressively use finer wet-and-dry paper.
15. Repair No. 3 — Larger Hole
A larger ding needs more than simply filling the hole.
A typical repair process is:
Damage → Dry → Remove damaged material → Repair foam → Shape → Fibreglass → Resin → Sand → Finish
16. Remove Damaged Material
Carefully remove loose or crushed fibreglass.
If the foam underneath has been badly damaged, remove the compromised foam until you reach solid material.
Don’t make the hole bigger than necessary.
17. Replace Missing Foam
If foam is missing, you may need to replace it with suitable compatible foam.
The replacement foam should be securely bonded and shaped to match the original board.
Once cured, carefully sand it to reproduce the board’s original contour.
Don’t simply fill a large hole with resin.
That creates a heavy repair and isn’t an appropriate replacement for missing structural foam.
18. Shape the Repair
Use sandpaper or appropriate shaping tools to reproduce the original contour.
Run your hand over the area.
You’re looking for:
- High spots
- Low spots
- Sharp edges
- Uneven transitions
The smoother the underlying shape, the easier the fibreglass repair will be.
19. Fibreglass the Repair
For larger repairs, several layers of fibreglass may be necessary.
A common approach is to use progressively smaller pieces:
Layer 1
Largest piece covering the repair.
Layer 2
Slightly smaller.
Layer 3
Smaller again if additional reinforcement is required.
This creates a tapered repair rather than a thick square-edged patch.
The exact number and weight of layers should match the original construction and the structural requirements of the repair.
20. Fin Repairs
Fin damage deserves special attention.
If the fin itself is damaged, that’s one thing.
If the fin box or surrounding board has been damaged, the repair can become structural.
Look for:
- Cracks around the fin box
- Movement in the fin box
- Softness around the box
- Fibreglass lifting
- Water entering around the box
If the fin box is moving, don’t simply cover the cracks with Solarez.
The box may need to be removed, the damaged material repaired, and the box properly reinstalled.
For significant fin-box damage, professional repair is often the safest option.
21. Leash Plug Repairs
Treat leash plug damage seriously.
The leash plug can experience considerable force.
If you see:
- Cracks around the plug
- Movement
- Separation from the board
- Soft foam
- Water entering the area
stop using the board until it has been properly repaired.
A cosmetic layer of resin isn’t enough if the plug has pulled away from its structural reinforcement.
22. Rail Repairs
Rails are particularly vulnerable because they regularly hit:
- Car doors
- Rocks
- The ground
- Other boards
- Each other in board bags
For a small rail ding:
- Dry the area.
- Clean it.
- Sand around the damage.
- Apply compatible repair resin.
- Add fibreglass if necessary.
- Cure.
- Sand smooth.
For a large crushed rail, rebuild the damaged foam first.
23. Bottom Repairs
The bottom of the board is often easier to repair because you can place the board flat.
For a small crack:
Clean → Sand → Resin → Cure → Sand
For a larger hole:
Clean → Remove damaged material → Repair foam → Shape → Fibreglass → Resin → Cure → Sand
24. Nose Repairs
The nose is another common damage point.
If the nose is simply chipped:
A small resin repair may be sufficient.
If the nose has been smashed:
You may need to:
- Remove loose material.
- Rebuild the foam.
- Shape the nose.
- Apply fibreglass.
- Apply resin.
- Sand and finish.
Try to reproduce the original nose shape rather than creating a large rounded lump.
25. Solarez vs Fibreglass Repair
| Repair | Solarez / Ding Resin | Fibreglass Repair |
|---|---|---|
| Tiny surface ding | Excellent | Usually unnecessary |
| Small crack | Good | Sometimes useful |
| Small hole | Good if compatible | Better for strength |
| Missing fibreglass | Limited | Recommended |
| Large hole | Not suitable alone | Recommended |
| Crushed foam | Not suitable | Foam must be rebuilt |
| Fin-box damage | Not suitable | Structural repair |
| Leash plug damage | Not suitable | Structural repair |
| Cosmetic chip | Excellent | Usually unnecessary |
| Major rail damage | Not suitable alone | Recommended |
26. Common Beginner Mistakes
1. Repairing a Wet Board
This is probably the biggest mistake.
If water has entered the foam, give it time to dry.
2. Using the Wrong Resin
Always check whether your board is PU/polyester or EPS/epoxy and whether the repair product is compatible.
3. Not Sanding Enough
Resin doesn’t magically bond to dirty, waxy or glossy surfaces.
Prepare the area properly.
4. Using Too Much Resin
More resin doesn’t automatically mean a stronger repair.
Fibreglass provides much of the reinforcement.
5. Sanding Through the Original Laminate
It’s easy to get carried away trying to make a repair perfectly smooth.
Stop before you expose the surrounding foam.
6. Making the Repair Too Small
A repair needs enough overlap onto sound material to create a strong bond.
7. Making the Repair Too Big
The opposite is also true.
Don’t sand away half the board to repair a tiny ding.
8. Ignoring Structural Damage
Don’t treat these as simple cosmetic dings:
- Fin boxes
- Leash plugs
- Deep rail damage
- Large cracks
- Crushed foam
- Delamination
- Major nose damage
27. A Simple Beginner Repair Workflow
For your first few repairs, use this process:
Small ding
1. Inspect
↓
2. Dry
↓
3. Clean
↓
4. Sand
↓
5. Apply compatible Solarez/ding resin
↓
6. Cure
↓
7. Sand smooth
Larger ding
1. Inspect
↓
2. Dry
↓
3. Remove loose material
↓
4. Prepare the surface
↓
5. Repair missing foam if necessary
↓
6. Shape
↓
7. Cut fibreglass
↓
8. Mix compatible resin
↓
9. Wet out fibreglass
↓
10. Cure
↓
11. Sand
↓
12. Apply finishing coat if required
↓
13. Final sanding
28. When Not to DIY
There are repairs where saving a few pounds isn’t worth risking your board.
Consider using a professional repairer for:
- Major structural damage
- Broken boards
- Extensive delamination
- Major fin-box damage
- Leash plug failure
- Extensive crushed foam
- Waterlogged boards
- Carbon-fibre structural damage
- Damage extending through a large section of the board
If you’re unsure whether a repair is structural, assume it is until you’ve had it assessed.
29. Your First Repair Kit
A good beginner’s repair box could contain:
- Compatible UV ding repair resin
- Compatible epoxy/polyester resin system
- Fibreglass cloth
- 80-grit sandpaper
- 120-grit sandpaper
- 180-grit sandpaper
- 240-grit sandpaper
- Wet-and-dry paper
- Mixing cups
- Mixing sticks
- Disposable gloves
- Safety glasses
- Masking tape
- Plastic spreaders
- Small scissors
- Razor blade
- Clean cloths
- Paper towels
Keep everything together in a dedicated repair box.
30. The Golden Rules of Surfboard Repair
Rule 1
Dry the board before sealing it.
Rule 2
Use resin compatible with the board.
Rule 3
Prepare the surface properly.
Rule 4
Fibreglass provides reinforcement — resin isn’t a substitute for it.
Rule 5
Build up large repairs gradually.
Rule 6
Sand carefully.
Rule 7
Don’t ignore structural damage.
Rule 8
If you aren’t sure, ask a professional surfboard repairer.
Quick Reference
| Damage | Beginner approach |
| Tiny scratch | Inspect and seal if necessary |
| Small ding | Compatible UV ding repair resin |
| Small crack | Sand, resin and potentially fibreglass |
| Missing laminate | Fibreglass + compatible resin |
| Small hole | Repair foam if needed + fibreglass |
| Large hole | Foam rebuild + fibreglass |
| Crushed rail | Foam rebuild + laminate |
| Fin-box damage | Professional/structural repair recommended |
| Leash plug damage | Professional/structural repair recommended |
| Broken board | Professional repair recommended |
Final Tip
Don’t make your first surfboard repair on your favourite board.
If possible, practise on an old board or a cheap damaged board first. You’ll quickly learn how resin flows, how fibreglass wets out and how much sanding is actually required.
Once you’ve done a few small repairs, moving from Solarez-style ding repairs to proper fibreglass work becomes much less intimidating.
A good repair doesn’t necessarily have to look perfect — it needs to be dry, properly bonded, structurally sound and shaped so it doesn’t interfere with the board’s performance.
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